1947年印度分治后，這里成了一片有爭議的領(lǐng)土，現(xiàn)在由三個國家管理：印度、巴基斯坦和中國。根據(jù)Burton Stein的印度史，“克什米爾既沒有海得拉巴那么大，也沒有海得拉巴那么古老；1846英國人創(chuàng)立了這個地方，用來獎勵當(dāng)時幫助英國戰(zhàn)勝錫克教徒的一位官員（其實(shí)是漢奸）。喜馬拉雅王國通過旁遮普的一個地區(qū)與印度相連，但其人口中77%是穆斯林，與巴基斯坦接壤。因此，大眾預(yù)計這個王公會在8月14日至15日（也是印巴分治的日子，巴基斯坦和印度的國慶節(jié)）英國統(tǒng)治結(jié)束時加入巴基斯坦。巴基斯坦人有點(diǎn)猴急，在當(dāng)他猶豫不決時，發(fā)動了游擊隊(duì)襲擊，本想著恐嚇一下，讓他屈服，沒曾想到，王公向蒙巴頓總督求助，總督同意了他加入印度。印度士兵進(jìn)入克什米爾，將巴基斯坦支持的游擊隊(duì)趕出該邦的一小部分地區(qū)。聯(lián)合國介入，提議由克什米爾人來覺得加入哪一邊，也就是公投，而印度則堅(jiān)持認(rèn)為，要先把游擊隊(duì)全部剿滅，不然不可能舉行全民公決?！?/section>In the last days of 1948, a ceasefire was agreed under UN auspices. However, since the plebiscite demanded by the UN was never conducted, relations between India and Pakistan soured, and eventually led to two more wars over Kashmir in 1965 and 1999. 1948年的最后幾天，在聯(lián)合國主持下達(dá)成了停火協(xié)議。然而，由于聯(lián)合國要求的公投從未進(jìn)行過，自從留下了禍根，戰(zhàn)爭的火苗從未熄滅。印度和巴基斯坦之間的關(guān)系惡化，最終導(dǎo)致1965年和1999年針對克什米爾的兩次戰(zhàn)爭。到如今，兩國還是不斷有摩擦，不斷有戰(zhàn)火。The Pakistani administered Kashmir is called Azad Kashmir, while the Indian administered Kashmir is called Occupied Kashmir by the people of Pakistan. Interestingly the Chinese administered Kashmir is not talked about by Pakistani people and government. 巴基斯坦管理的克什米爾被稱為阿扎德克什米爾，而印度管理的克什米爾被巴基斯坦人稱為被占領(lǐng)的克什米爾。有趣的是，巴基斯坦人和政府并未對中國管理的克什米爾有任何異議。I will write about the Kashmir issue in detail some other time, today I will take you on a journey the Kashmir valley in Pakistan. 我將在其他一些時候詳細(xì)地寫克什米爾問題，今天我想帶你去看看巴基斯坦的克什米爾山谷。After having breakfast in Islamabad, we left for Rawalakot in Kashmir. It takes 3 to 5 hours by road from Islamabad. We took a longer way via Muree because the other route from Kahuta has areas prone to land sliding. River Jehlam acts as a natural boundary between Punjab and Kashmir. We stopped at Kohala bridge, on Jehlam river to enjoy the cold water of Jehlam river and have a tea. The locals have placed charpai (beds) along the river under the shades. The river water was sweet and thirst quencher. The tea tasted good with half of our legs covered in cold water. 當(dāng)天在伊斯蘭堡吃完早餐后，我們出發(fā)前往Rawalkot。從伊斯蘭堡到這開車大概要3-5小時。我們從Muree走，因?yàn)槠渌房赡軙兴健ehlam河是旁遮普和克什米爾的分界線。我們在Kohala橋下停留，坐在浸泡在河水中的床上，享受著從伊斯蘭堡逃離的炎熱，腳下是冰涼的河水，茶杯里的熱茶更好喝了。
Restaurants have sitting places besides the river and somewhere inside the smaller portion of river. Across the Jehlam River the beautiful valley of Kashmir starts, with fruit trees, corn fields, sunflower fields and pine tree covered mountains.
跨過Jehlam河后，美麗的克什米爾就開始了，一路上的水果樹、玉米地、葵花籽以及松鼠覆蓋了連綿起伏的山峰。Dense tree covered mountains, with river flowing in the valley. We stopped by a walnut tree full of fresh walnut beside the road to enjoy the walnuts. 茂密的樹木覆蓋著群山，山谷中流淌著河流，我們在路邊的一棵核桃樹旁停下來欣賞胡桃，在中國的時候吃過新鮮的核桃，難以忘記的美味。新鮮的核桃，老巴在中國的時候吃過新鮮核桃，驚為天人Our first destination was a place named Suddhan Gali. It’s a small village with seemingly more guest houses than the local houses. There is a stark contrast between the local’s residence and the rest houses. The rest house we stayed was a three story building with carpeted rooms and clean environment. The locals are poor but very hospitable. A lady working in her small field saw my mother and invited us to her home. She told us that her husband works at a petrol pump in Rawalpindi and she is living with her son. Her son goes to public school which is free. Few years back the earthquake leveled her home, and they have to construct all over.
我們的第一個目的地是一個名叫Suddhan Gali的地方。這是一個小村莊，招待所的數(shù)量似乎比當(dāng)?shù)厝思业姆孔舆€多。當(dāng)?shù)鼐用竦淖≌c其他住宅形成了鮮明的對比。我們住的房子是一棟三層樓高的建筑，房間鋪著地毯，環(huán)境干凈。當(dāng)?shù)厝撕芨F，但很好客。一位在她的小田里工作的女士看到了我母親，邀請我們?nèi)ニ?。她告訴我們，她的丈夫在拉瓦爾品第的一家加油站工作，她和兒子住在一起。她兒子上的公立學(xué)校是免費(fèi)的。幾年前，地震把她的家夷為平地，他們不得不重新再建房子。
Left is a small housing for chicken, on right a small room for a buffalo. 我很喜歡這樣子的生活方式，采菊東籬下，悠然見南山。They hardly had any useful piece of land for growing. Big bungalows in cities like Lahore DHA may have more lawns than their farmland, yet they offered us a very tasty tea (no milk). The lady also offered to eat from her as long as we are staying there, we told her we have our own stove for cooking, on our refusal she said at least she can cook the chapati for us. 他們用來種莊稼的地方實(shí)在是太小了，拉合爾等城市的一些人家門前的草坪都要比他們種莊稼的地方大多了。但他們給我們提供了非常美味的茶（不含牛奶）。這位女士還表示只要我們呆在那里，她就可以從她那里吃東西，我們告訴她我們有自己的爐子做飯，對于我們的拒絕，她說至少她可以為我們做Roti。 From this place 7km away there is a highest peak around 10000 ft ~ 3000 meters. There is a road leading to the mountain, where you can camp and climb the mountain yourself or hire a horse to ride up the top.
從7公里外的這個地方有一座約3000米的山?？梢耘赖缴缴先ヂ稜I，也可以雇一匹馬騎上山頂。Wild horses can be seen enjoying the sunshine 可以看見野馬在在曬日光浴。P.S，我懷疑老巴不知道這是當(dāng)?shù)厝朔拍恋鸟R，不是野馬。A makeshift toilet for visitors The camps had Chinese written on them :P 當(dāng)?shù)厝顺鲎獾穆稜I帳篷，上面寫著漢字，雖然我看的懂，但咱不敢說，咱也不敢問。：PLocals collect the garbage voluntarily to keep the area clean. Tourist from all background come here, and many of them are uncultured when it comes to garbage. 當(dāng)?shù)厝俗栽甘占?，以保持該地區(qū)的清潔。來自不同背景的游客來到這里，當(dāng)談到垃圾時，他們中的許多人都是沒有文化的。There were a lot variety of small flowers on the top.
Panoramic view near the top. The horses drop until this place. Rest have to climb ourself Some views from the top.靠近頂部的全景。馬一直停到這個地方。其余的人都得自己爬上去，從高處看一些風(fēng)景 Two young girls with a guide climb all they way to the top on foot. Young climbers in making. 兩個年輕女孩在向?qū)У膸ьI(lǐng)下徒步一路爬到山頂。年輕的攀巖者在攀登。An eco friendly mobile shop on the mountain Many people also travel on bikes. There are groups on facebook for people who travel across Pakistan on bikes, they can guide you and also post their adventure. They even post the must carry items list for bikers. Bikes can go even where the Jeeps can’t go, also its much cheaper. 許多人也騎摩托車旅行。facebook上有一些騎自行車穿越巴基斯坦的小組，會有人指導(dǎo)，他們還發(fā)布了他們的冒險經(jīng)歷。甚至貼了摩托車車手必帶的物品清單。自行車可以去吉普車不能去的地方，也便宜得多。Even cheaper than the public transport. Fuel cost of only 3 Rs per Km for a single person. And if two persons sharing a bike it comes to 1.5 Rs per Km per person. 騎摩托車旅行甚至比公共交通更便宜。單人每公里僅需3盧比的燃油成本。如果兩個人共用一輛自行車，那么每人每公里的車資為1.5盧比。Banjosa Lake is an artificial lake and a tourist resort 18 kilometers (11 mi) from the city of Rawalakot in Poonch District of Azad Kashmir, Pakistan. It is located at an altitude of 1,981 meters (6,499 ft). The lake is surrounded by dense pine forest and mountains, which make it charming and romantic. 班卓薩湖是一個人工湖，是一個旅游勝地，距離巴基斯坦阿扎德克什米爾Ponch區(qū)的拉瓦拉科特市18公里。海拔1981米（6499英尺）。湖的四周是茂密的松林，群山擁抱著這個人工小湖，使它迷人而浪漫。The weather in the area remains cool in Summers and cold in Winter. In December and January snowfall also occurs here and the temperature falls to -5°C. During Summer, the temperature remains 16°C to 25°C. 這里夏天氣候涼爽，冬天天氣寒冷。在12月和1月，這里也會下雪，氣溫降至-5°C。夏季，氣溫保持在16°C至25°C之間。From the lake, we climbed up the mountain to a small market place (a few shops), the view was incredible with thick grass covering the rocky road and the surroundings and the thick blanket of pine trees makes it harder to find a bare patch of ground. 我們從湖邊爬上山，來到一個小市場（幾家商店），那里的景色令人難以置信，厚厚的草地覆蓋著巖石路面和周圍的環(huán)境，茂密的松林讓我們找不到一塊空地稍作停留。Morning dew glittering like diamonds Dense forest surrounding the guest house and lakeVisitors and families enjoying the few motor boats available Old rocky track now covered in grass gives a cinematic view.
